Sewing-machine.



C. F. GRAY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. Io. I9I4.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

A TTOH/VEY COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPM co., WASHINGTON, D. C.

C. F. GRAY.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. lo. 1914.

1,156,839. Patnted Oct. 12, 1915.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WITH/8858: l/V VEN TOR Y Y 071 lef@ ww ff f@ A TORNEI coLUMBIAPLANOQRAPM C0..wASMNTON. D. C.

narran srnrns rnfrnnm ernten.

,CHARLES F. GRAY, GF SIERRA MADRE, CALIFORNIA, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERMANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY."

SEWING-MACHINE.

specification pf Letters ratent-- Patentga @C1-, 12,1915.

Application filed February 10, 1914. Serial No. 817,737.

i To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES F. GRAY, a citizen of the United States,residing at Sierra Madre, in the county of Los Angeles and State ofCalifornia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inSewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification, referencebeing had therein toV the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and has forits object to provide an organizedmachine capable of effecting, at asingle operation, both lockstitch and chain-stitch sea-ms, and for abetter understanding of the invention there is herein shown anddescribed a seam structure especially adapted to the manufacture ofcorsets consisting of three separate parallel seams, the two outercomprising lockstitches and the inner chain-stitches.

To effect three or more parallel lock-stitch seams by. a singleoperation of an organized machine, as in the earlier constructions,involves disadvantages which increases the cost and limits the design ofthe product as compared with the present construction, as the means foreffecting each of the seams `includes an under mass of thread in theforni of a small bobbin or cop which must frequently he replaced, and todo this in connection with the stitch-forming mechanism` for effectingthe central seam calls for complications in construction and of suchdespace between the outer loop-takers to permit of the introductionbetween them of the third or central loop-taker, and to effect evena-comparatively wide gage of seams one of the loop-takers must becapable of movement out of its operative position toaccommodate thereplacing of thecentral bobbin or mass of thread.

`Iii-machines organized to effect three or more parallel lock-stitchseams at a single operation the stitch-forming rmechanism is limited, sofar as applicant has any knowl- .l

edge, Vto the employment of loop-takers operated in apla-necorresponding substantiallyV i to the line of needle actuation, andwhile the present invention isapplicable to such forms of constructionit is more vdesirable salto employ it in connection with loop-takershaving two complete actuations toone complete stitch-forming movement ofthe needlecarrying bar, the movements of said loop- Italgers being in aplane which permits of an interchange of bobbins without complicationsor hindrance due. to the formation of the, inner or central seam, and inconnection with1one form of, so termed, universal feed,

as in the present construction.

The present invention givesto the manufacturers the advantage of thecheaper and more easily effected chain-stitch seam when- Y it isbelieved, would if effected by Va single operationof an organizedmachine, be va necessityv in the absence ofthe present constructiomandto give to the manufacturers a machine capable of a speed double that ofany' threeneedle lock-stitch sewing machine known to the trade.

It is evident that the present construction mighty be employed to effectonly one of the` multiple seams, but such use would simply comprise apossible means, a makeshift or temporary substitute for effecting agiven seam, the gist of the invention residing in the providing of meansfor effecting a seaml construction chain-stitch seams. Y,

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1, is a view in front side elevationof the present sewing machinefthe frame being shown comprisinglock-stitch and".

partlyin section to better illustrate certain details-later to`be'referredto.V Fig. 2 an underside view of Fig. `l. Fig. 3 av planview of the front end portion of the bedplate.; Fig. 3a the feed-dogshowndetached'y from its actuating mechanism to better' illustrate thearrangement of the looper with respect tothe loop-takers. Fig. 4 a crosssection on the line -m Fig. 3. Fig. 5, one

chine is especially adapted.-

Referring to the figures, 1 represents the 1 Vsewing machine bed-plateupon l which is. mounted the bracket-arm comprising the .y standard 2and the arm bracketV 3, 4c ,thef main or yneedle-bar driving shaftprovided with the band or hand-wheel H5 and yoperatively connected withthe lower or looptaker actuating shaftV by connections, as 7 ioo l Yform of product to which the present ma?` r 8 denotes the feedrock-shaft mounted in suitable bearings depending from the bedplate andat its rear end provided with a crank-arm 9 pivotally connected tothelower end of the feed connection 10, the opposite end of the latterbeing connected to the main-shaft through a suitable feed eccentric (notshown), thus transmitting from the latter rocking movements to the feedrock- Vshaft 8. To the front end of the feed rockshaft is pivotallyconnected the feed-dog carrying-bar 11 providedwith the feed-dog 12,ythe opposite end of the feed-dog carrying-bar having rigidly secured toit a forked connection 13 which embraces an eccentric 14 carried by theloop-taker actuating shaft, thus transmitting from the latter verticalmovements to said feed-dog.

l5 represents a needlefeed rockshaft j'ournaled in suitable bearingsformed in the arm bracket and at its rear end provided with a rigidlysecured crank-arm 16 to the outer end of which is pivotally connected aneedle-feed connection 17, the lower end of the latter being pivotallyconnected to the crank-arm 9 and having the same axis as the lower endof the connection 10. To the forward end of the needle-feed rockshaft issuitably secured a needle vibrating arm 18V whose free end enters asuitable slot formed in the collar 19 (shown in dotted lines only, F ig.l) carried by the needle-bar 20, thus transmitting from the main-shaftthrough the feed eccentric and connections 10, 9, 17, 16, 15, 18 and 19,feed movements to theneedles, as 21, corresponding in amplitudeto thefeed movements of the feeddog 12. The needle-carrying bar is providedwith a needle-carrying-bracket 22 into which is secured the needles 21and 23 denotes the cloth-presser suitably secured to the lower endV 24-of one form of commonly employed cloth-presser carrying bar. The plate26 secured by screws, as 27, tothe front s'ide'of the bracket-arm andprovided with the indexl 28, pointer 29 and opening 30 comprise elementsforming a part of the feedadjusting mechanism, but as the latter has noparticular bearing on the present invention, further reference to itsconstructive features is deemed unnecessary.

31 and 32 represent the left and right hand loop-takers respectively,each of which are provided with anon-rotating bobbin case as 33 and eachof the latter with threadbobbins as 34. The bobbin cases being heldagainst rotation by suitable lugs as 35 (one only of which is shown, seeFig. vdepending from the underside'of the throat or needle-plate 36 andentering the notches as 25 formed in said bobbin cases, as in earlierconstructions.

37 and 38 denote the loop-taker shafts of loop-takers 31 and 32respectively, said shafts being journaled in the respectivev brackets 39and 40, said brackets at one edge being securedby pinch-joints, as lll,on the shaft bushings, as 42, the opposite edges of 'said brackets beingheld against accidental displacement by screws, as 45, threaded into thebed-plate 1. rlhe loop-takers 31 and 32 are operatively connected withthe looptaker actuating shaft 6 through the spiralgears r-16 and 47,carried by said shaft, acting on the spiral-gears 48 and 49 carried bythe respective loop-taker shafts 37 and. 3S. The ratio of said gearsbeing as one to two, thus giving to the loop-taker two rotations to onecomplete actuation of the needle-carryingbar.

50 represents a looper actuating eccentric carried by the loop-takeractuating shaft (S and encircled by an eccentric strap or collar 51provided with a bearing 52 inclined to the plane of rotation of saideccentric, and into said bearing is mounted the looper carrying rod 53provided with the looper' 54, the opposite end of said rod being securedby means of the pivot screw 55 in a forked Vopening 56 of the slidingsleeve 57, which latter is mounted on the pin 5S-carried by a bracket 59secured by screws, as 60, to a stationary part of the sewing machineframe. The looper 5st comprises a straight blade having the usual threadeye at its point, its opposite end being provided with the thread leader61 through which the looper thread is passed to the thread eye, theeccentric strap or collar 51 being confined between the lianges, as 62,carried by the eccentric 50.

63 denotes a needle thread loop guard carried by the looper betweenwhich and said guard the needle rises in the formation of its threadloop the guard acting to better insure the formation of the loop at theside of the needle next the looper.

'From the foregoing it will be readily understood that the eccentric 50transmits to the looper' needle, thread loop-engaging and loop-sheddingmovements in directions transverse to the looper actuating shaft, andthat the angularly arranged bearing 52 acts jupon the loop-carrier rod53 to effect needle avoiding movements of the looptaker in directionscorresponding to the length of said shaft. It is not deemed necessary toherein define the relative action of looper and its coacting needle toform stitch-es, as suchrelative action is common to earlierconstructions and well understoodgb'y those versed in the art, except toexplain that as the looper is moved toward the front of the machine itenters the needlethread loop as the needle is being moved upward, theneXt subsequent descent of the needle 'entering the looper-thread loop,when the looper in its further movement in a direction away from'thefront of the machine sheds the needle-thread loop which is drawn Vintothe fabric in they formation of theI stitch, during which time thelooper has reversed its motion to form a succeedingstitcli, the looperbeing at the left of the needle during its forward movement and at ingmechanisms employ a needle-thread take-up for controlling the slack oftheV thread after the looper has entered the thread-loop tosubstantially the completion of the upward stroke of the needle. Suchtake-up in some varieties of constructions needle-bar. In the presentconstruction the like control of the like thread is eiected by thedownward movement of the lock-stitch take-up 68,- which, as is wellunderstood, effects its most important functions of controlling theformation of a lock-stitch seam on its upward movement when, after the.

loop has been cast about the under cop or bobbin, acts to control theslack of the diminishing loop, andat substantially the completion ofsuch movement acts to set the stitch. In the present construction thelock-stitch seam take-up, in connectionwith the thread leader 7 5,eifects the same control of the Y chain-stitch needle thread as theneedle-bar or independent take-up common Y to chain-stitch sewingmachine construction.

` respective thread eyes of the outer of the l needles 21. The looperneedle thread 72 is passed from the supply .through the thread eye 73,tension device 7i, thread leader 75 formed inthe bracket 76 adjustablysecured by screws, as 77, to the tension bracket 78, carried by thearm-bracket, beneath the take-up 68, through the thread opening 79,thread retaining check 80, needle opening 81,from which latter it ispassed through the eye of the centrally located needle. The looper orunder chain-stitch thread l82 is passed iirst through the tension 83,thread check 83 to the action of the under take-up 84, then through thetubular opening 85`to the thread leader 61 carried by the' looper 54,and through the thread eye 86 of said looper.

The present looper-actuating mechanism is adapted for either the eyed ornon-eyed looper, dependent upon whether a single or double chain-stitchis desired.

The introduction of- F ig. 5 into the present application is for abetter understanding ofthe advantages of the present invention formanufacturing purposes. Referring to the figure, the corset-steel orstay* pockets, as 87, for the stays, as 88, are

formed by-stitching the strip 89'to the body portion 90 by threeparallel seams effected at single operation by van organized machine,and until after the introduction to the trade of thefpresentconstruction each of the seams were composed of either lock orchain-'stitches,.the latter being employed in connection with poorer orcheaper grades of corsets and the former in connection with themanufacture of the better grades, the employment of the three lockstitchseams in the latter grades being a necessity as there were no machinesknown to 'the trade capable ofeffecting the inner chain-stitch seam a inconnection with the outerlock-stitch seam b and c at a single operation,as herein. It is well understood that a chain-stitch seam positioned sothat the exposed portions of the threadrare protected against severewear, as is the'llockstitch seam a bythe pockets 87 and stays 88, is asdurable'as the lockestitch seam'and more desirable in the matter of costand convenience vof operation, and accordingly,

whene'ifer such combination of seam construction is permissible the costis materially reduced and convenience of operation simplified.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis 1. In an organized sewing machine for effecting at a single operationa seam construction including a lock-stitch and a chainstitch seam, thecombination with a single Vneedle-bar providedV with a multiple ofneedles of a chain-stitch looper and rotary loop-takers, the latterprovided with a mass of under thread.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with a plurality ofreciprocating needles, of circularly moving loop takers cooperating withtwo of said needles and formedv with of their respective beaks, and achainstitch looper having a needle-loop detaining blade cooperating withVanother of said needles intermediate said loop-takers;

3. In an organized sewing machine for effecting at a single operation aseam construction including a lock-stitch and a chainstitchseam, thecombination with multiple needles, of a chain-stitch looper having onecomplete actuation to one complete action 0f its coacting needle and arotary loop-taker, the latter provided with a mass of under thread andhaving a multiple of complete `actuations to `one complete action of itsco- `acting needle.

, 4. In an organized sewing machine for effecting at a single operationa seam construction including a lock-stitch and a chainstitch seam, thecombinationwith a single 5. ln an organized sewing machine for effectingat a single operation a seam construction including a lock-stitch and achainstitch seam, the combination with an upper main-shaft, a needle-barprovided with a threaded needle for effecting a chain-stitchA seam and athreaded needle for effecting a lock-stitch seam, a lower looperactuating shaft, and a chain-stitch looper and a loop- 'taker eachprovided with an under thread,V of an under thread take-up operativelyconnected with said latter shaft and an upper thread take-up operativelyconnected with said main-shaft, the former take-up acting to control thechain-stitch looper thread and the .upper take-up the sewing threads foreffecting the lock-stitch seam, the downward movement of the lattertake-up also acting to control the formation of the chain-Stitch seam.

6. ln an organized sewing machine for effecting at a single operationaseam construction including a lock-stitch and a cl1ainstitch seam, thecombination with an upper main-shaft, a. needle-bar provided with athreaded'needle for eilecting a chain-stitch seam and a threaded needlefor effecting a lock-stitch seam, a lower looper actuating` shaft, achain-stitch looper and a loop-taker, the latter provided with a mass ofunder thread, of a. needle thread take-up operatively connected withsaid main-shaft and acting to control the sewing thread for effectingthe lockstitch seam, the downward movement of said take-up acting tocontrol the formation of the'chain-stitch seam.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, inthe presence 0i' two subscribing witnesses.

CHARLES F. GRAY.

Witnesses WV. L. GILLILAND, GEORGE B. MORGRIDGE.

G'opies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. C. v

